Pass Jeux

Mr. Peacock returns

The run up to the Olympics has thrown Paris into a mood! The police are out in full force and barriers are being erected everywhere. Metro stops are closed for the next three months, buses rerouted, and traffic is awful trying to get into town as so many roads and bridges are blocked—it is not just the Olympics but the Para-Olympics as well, and the disruptions will be in effect until late September. The Pont Neuf is the epicenter of activities on July 26 (opening day) —as the athletes will be arriving on barges on the river Seine. It is going to be very cool but also very crowded! If you are not planning on going to the Olympics, I recommend avoiding Paris till the end of September. It is very difficult to navigate right now and many of my favorite restaurants are closing for the duration. I guess the locals are not as excited as we are.

How it usually is

How it is in preparation for the Olympics

As you can see the Pont Neuf is now closed for business and only Pass Jeux holders with the correct QR code can access the bridge. Obtaining the Pass Jeux has been a feat of French ridiculousness, with a side of all kinds of shenanigans. We had to get the pass in order to access our apartment, as the bridge and the quais in front of it are in the “Grey Zone” from now through the opening ceremony on July 26. I applied for our family on June 11 and by the end of June had not heard a word from French authorities, which made me quite nervous. So, in early July, I strolled on down to the prefecture of police hoping for some information regarding our passes.

As you can probably already surmise from my tales of French government inefficiency, I girded myself for a difficult and circular visit—Paris-style! Our local Prefecture of Police is down near the Jardin de Luxembourg-a short walk from home, but I blocked out an entire afternoon, preparing myself for frustration. When I got to the Police Prefecture, there was a guard outside who wanted to know what my business was with the police department as they are very busy preparing for the Olympics. I told the guard that, in fact, my business involved the Olympics and the Pass Jeux. The guard kind of squinted at me and announced, “No one will want to speak with you about that.” I would like to say that was a shocker, but alas, it was not. A little ominous perhaps, but undeterred, I pressed on and insisted I be allowed to at least ask someone about our status.

After gaining admittance I waited in a queue until I could speak to what appeared to be a receptionist. I explained as best I could in French, what my issue was—no pass jeux and the streets were about to be closed—barricades were going up on my walk over there. Oddly, she was very nice, but told me that the police department had nothing to do with the pass jeux and I would need to visit the Mayor’s office. Really strange because it is the police department who is doing the background checks on everyone before issuing the passes, but ok—I was willing to go to the Mayor’s office—which is in the very same building, and make further inquiry.

Outside and around the corner, I attempted to enter the Mayor’s office when another guard stopped me, again wanting to know my business. I again explained, again was told that no one would be able to speak with me, and again I forced the issue and gained admittance to wait in another queue to talk to another receptionist.

I am guessing y’all probably know where this is going, and you are not wrong. I waited in line, spoke to the receptionist—who did actually look up my name on her computer, but who then said, I am so sorry—this is the business of the Prefecture of Police. They are located around the corner and you need to go see them. I resisted rolling my eyes at her and instead asked her what we should do if our QR code doesn’t arrive by July 18 when they lock down the bridge and the quais and we can’t get to our apartment. She looked me in the eye and deadpan said, “I guess you won’t be able to go home.” Ok then. I may not be the sharpest tool in the shed, but I do know when something is going exactly— NOWHERE, so I gathered my documents and departed, feeling like I had done all I could in pursuit of the Pass Jeux and the rest was going to be left to fate.

Fortunately, our qr codes arrived in the nick of time, and today, when I arrived at Charles de Gaulle, full of excitement and anticipation, I was quickly brought to heel. It took two hours to get into town, and then the car service that I use could not access the “grey zone”, even though I have the pass. After a very long ride and the disappointment of not being able to get into my neighborhood, I finally abandoned the car and driver and began on foot. I hauled my luggage two miles— by myself— through the grey zone to the apartment—not a car on the road. I literally walked down the middle of the street with all my luggage. It was eerie— like maybe the rapture came and I got left behind.

Real life Paris photo! The streets in the “grey zone” are empty of cars and people!

When I finally (hot, sweaty and desperately needing to use the bathroom) arrived at the apartment, it was totally blocked with this fencing. Feeling a bit like a prisoner in a maximum security facility, I clutched at the bars and cursed my lot. Desperately searching for an escape route, I walked down another two blocks and came up a side street heavily guarded by gendarmes who let me pass—after scanning my qr code and eyeing my bags. They are not messing around. No one is getting through without a pass jeux.

So close and yet so very far!

After taking a much-needed shower, I decided to explore on foot —in part to test the value of my hard-won pass jeux, and in part to figure out what the boundaries are. I headed across the Pont Neuf and stopped to take a picture of the stands lining the river for the grand opening. It should be something to see. Feeling really grateful we will be watching it from the 5th floor of our building at our neighbor’s fun party!

Stands lining the river!

As soon as I snapped this photo, a police officer approached me and asked me what I was doing. I admitted that I was taking a photo. He gave me a hard look and told me not to linger, and asked to look in my bag. Jeez. Paranoid much?? How can I not want to look around? I have never been to an Olympics and want to savor my touristy moments! Even though today was a little crazy, I am beyond excited! And as the advance team for the family —I am super glad I came early to scout it out. Four days to go! More soon from your loyal reporter on the ground in Paris!

On a last note, Ricky has finished cleaning all the fireplaces and touching up the painting and the apartment is all ready for its Olympic debut. Even Mr. Peacock has returned in full plumage, delivered like a bouquet of flowers by Ameline from Deyrolle-I can’t imagine what she looked like heading down the street with him tucked under arm! A sight I am so sad to have missed.

Welcome back Mr. Peacock—looking proud!